“Should I come? Will I like it?,” I enquired of my friend who had just arrived in the Argentine capital. “It reminds me of Barcelona – save yourself the half-day trip and go to Catalunya instead…” was his response, but was shortly followed up by “are you coming or what?”.
I must admit I was rather hesitant – travelling to a new continent in the depths of February (I’ve never been a confident flyer), during the crescendo of an unprecedented pandemic, and having to plan a trip to the other side of the world in the space of a few days was causing me mild anxiety to say the least. But then I thought, I will never have a better excuse to visit Buenos Aires, and in life, opportunities must be seized.
A few days later I reluctantly booked my flights (my nervous disposition had heightened), and 48 hours later I found myself on the longest-haul journey in my 30 years. 14-hours didn’t fly by, but it wasn’t as daunting as expected – I didn’t sleep a wink on the red-eye, and paradoxically arrived in the land of Diego Maradona fresher than my buddy Estefano, who had ingeniously gone clubbing and had maybe spent an hour snoozing off his heavy night.
That morning we reunited at our airbnb in Palermo – specifically in the more chilled, yet tasteful “Hollywood” part of the suburb, rather than “Soho” or “Chico”. I was beyond tired, but was so excited I had made it through 5 hours of turbulence over the Amazon, and was ready to explore the city. On first glance my amigo was right, there was an extremely Mediterranean feel to the city, which immediately helped me feel at home. Of course, centuries of Spanish rule meant that BA (as I began to call it) did in fact resemble a mezcla of Madrid and Barcelona. Its European feel, warm climate (February is the height of the Argentine summer), and friendly locals proved central in my acclimatisation to the Southern Hemisphere.
On the daily, mi compañero and I indulged on alfajores (dulce de leche cream, sandwiched by two almost shortbread-like biscuits) and medialunas (mini-croissants, often jam-brushed), venturing to Bartola in Palermo Soho, and Pottery Coffee and Deli in Palermo Hollywood for our quotidian fix (with a café con leche on the side).
We would then begin our day by visiting one of the many exciting barrios in other parts of the city. Top of anyone’s list should be a trip to La Boca, a home to intensely coloured buildings adorning its many streets. The area is also home to the stadium of the world-famous Boca Juniors, where football matches are more of a vivacious spectacle than those in Europe. Next to La Boca is San Telmo, with its old-world bourgeois charm and European architecture, and a flea market on Sundays (pictured). I also enjoyed Recoleta, the Kensington of Buenos Aires if you will, with its huge mansions and large boulevards – it is also home to the MALBA, a modern art museum (which I found slightly underwhelming, although it is worth visiting its airy café on the ground floor). Recoleta is also home to a fabulous cemetery packed with mausoleums and intricate tombs of famous Argentines, including the resting place of Evita Perón.
Meals/dinners in Buenos Aires are extremely varied; but one thing is certain – you will eat well. I would highly recommend Don Julio for the traditional Argentine meat-eating experience. It is extremely busy but I wouldn’t dwell – generous amounts of prosecco and empañadas are served to waiting customers. The steaks, chops and meat dishes (*vegans look away*) are amongst the best I’ve ever had not just in Argentina, but worldwide (and don’t forget the Malbec). Other options include Sarki for some Armenian mezze, Il Gran Caruso for splendid Italian food (the alfredo is out of this world), and the Burger Joint for cheap and cheerful (but good lord, ever so moist) burgers. Palermo is the place to be when it comes to evening entertainment: so after dinner, head to either Hollywood or preferably Soho to drink or dance the night away. Favourite haunts include Temple for low-key dancing and good beers, or the more up-market Rey de Copas.
Other things to do in the city include watching some tango at Café Tortoni or even a polo match or two (there is a big polo stadium in Palermo). BA also boasts a great number of parks including the Bosques de Palermo and El Jardín Japonés, which are well-kept and are a delightful way to spend a sunny day. For a Monday evening, an absolute must is a visit to Bomba del Tiempo, an outdoor concert venue in the Almagro district which hosts a number of very talented percussion troupes which in turn create an electric ambience (this is the moment I finally felt I was in South America). For those a touch more adventurous, trips to nearby Colonia de Sacramento (only 1 hour’s ferry-ride away) in Uruguay is a fun way to break up the trip – its quaint streets, and lovely fauna decorating almost every house provides a nice bit of respite from the bustle of the Argentinian capital; make sure to head to Charco for lunch or drinks – its seafront location, and chilled vibe is idyllic.
In summary, should I have just gone to Barcelona instead? The answer is an emphatic no – going forward, you may as well call me Constantine the Argentine.
The Constant Times 